There is always a degree of uncertainty surrounding the first night of a new event. The invitation can paint a compelling picture. The menu can read beautifully. The location, the producers and the styling can all suggest that something special is about to unfold. But until the doors open, the first glass is poured, and people settle into the room, no one really knows whether all those individual elements will come together.
Dark Spirits at the Sheraton Melbourne promised a polished winter gathering: a little darker, a little warmer and perhaps a little cheeky. On Friday 17 July, it delivered exactly that.
Held within their restaurant, the first Dark Spirits evening brought together three leading Victorian distillers—Bass & Flinders, JimmyRum and Timboon Distillery—for two hours of spirits, food, stories and warm conversation. We attended the inaugural evening with a healthy appetite and an open mind. By the end of the night, we had eaten exceptionally well, tasted far more than expected and learned a great deal about Australian distilling. It was not simply a tasting event.
It was a genuine food, drink and social experience. The evening began with a Bitter & Twisted Limoncello on arrival. Bright, lively and suitably direct, it was a welcome opening note and an immediate indication that this would not be a timid evening. From there, the experience moved through a carefully considered sequence of Victorian brandy, rum and whisky, each matched with a dish created by Head Chef Craig Dowling and the kitchen team at Little Collins Street Kitchen.
The first formal pairing brought together the Bass & Flinders Noble Stranger Apple Brandy and chicken liver parfait with brioche and red onion jam. The apple brandy had freshness and generosity, while the richness of the parfait was balanced beautifully by the sweetness and acidity of the red onion jam. It was a confident opening pairing and one that encouraged everyone at the table to slow down and pay attention.
Next came JimmyRum Pinot 2025, paired with smoked Great Ocean Road duck breast, carrot purée, quince and a duck-skin cracker. This was one of those combinations that made immediate sense once tasted. The Pinot cask influence within the rum met the smoke and richness of the duck, while the quince and carrot provided a softer, sweeter counterpoint. The duck-skin cracker added texture and, perhaps more importantly, gave everyone at the table a perfectly reasonable excuse not to leave anything on the plate.
The third pairing moved into whisky territory with Timboon Distillery’s Port Expression, accompanied by an organic L’Artisan raclette custard and chorizo crumb. This was one of the evening’s more adventurous matches. The whisky carried richness and warmth from its port influence, while the raclette custard brought depth and intensity. The chorizo crumb added spice, salt and texture. It was a bold dish designed to stand beside the whisky rather than quietly sit underneath it.
Bass & Flinders then returned with Noble Stranger Brandy, paired with seared Hokkaido scallop, cauliflower purée, beurre noisette and crisp sage. The scallop was beautifully cooked, with the beurre noisette and sage providing nutty, savoury notes that sat comfortably alongside the brandy. It was elegant without becoming precious and showed just how naturally a carefully made Australian brandy can work at the dining table.
JimmyRum’s 007 followed. The name sounds slightly menacing, or at least as though it should arrive wearing a dinner jacket. It was paired with crispy pork belly, caramelised pineapple and blue cheese dressing. This was a generous, full-flavoured combination. The pork belly carried the richness, the pineapple brought sweetness and acidity, and the blue cheese dressing added an unexpected savoury edge. It was playful, confident and very much in keeping with JimmyRum’s own rumbustious character.
The final plated pairing of the evening featured Timboon Distillery’s Smoky 1881 Whisky with a dark chocolate tart and date purée. Whisky and dark chocolate are familiar companions for good reason, but the date purée added another layer of deep, natural sweetness. The smoky whisky cut through the richness of the tart and brought the formal part of the menu to a warm and satisfying conclusion.
There were also bonus pours, including coffee liqueurs from JimmyRum and Timboon Distillery, taking the evening beyond the six tastings originally promised. In total, guests received eight pours. No one appeared remotely upset by the administrative discrepancy.
The quantity and quality of the food were also worth noting. Tasting menus can sometimes interpret the word “tasting” a little too literally, leaving guests contemplating a second dinner on the way home. That was not the case here. The servings were generous, the pacing was considered and the menu felt complete. Each dish had enough substance to be enjoyed on its own while still fulfilling its role as a partner to the spirit.
Craig Dowling and his kitchen team were bang on with the flavour matching throughout the evening. Equally important was the service. Sam Lo and the front-of-house team managed the room with warmth, attentiveness and professionalism. Glasses appeared at the right time, dishes followed with good rhythm and the evening never felt rushed.
The true strength of Dark Spirits, however, came from the people behind the bottles. Sarah Jones, representing Timboon Distillery and JimmyRum, and Holly Klintworth, representing Bass & Flinders Distillery, shared far more than tasting notes. They spoke about process, ingredients, barrels, regional influences, and the evolving identity of Australian spirits. Their knowledge opened our eyes. There is an enormous amount of skill, patience and experimentation behind every bottle, and hearing directly from the makers gave the evening context and meaning. Australian distilling is not simply imitating the traditions of Cognac, Scotland or the Caribbean. It is developing its own voice, informed by those traditions but shaped by local ingredients, local conditions and distinctly Australian personalities.
The conversation remained accessible throughout. There was no attempt to make guests feel that they required a diploma in whisky, rum or brandy before participating. Questions were encouraged, stories were shared and the makers’ obvious enthusiasm became infectious.
That spirit of openness also carried into the room itself.
The warm interior of Little Collins Street Kitchen provided the right setting for a Melbourne winter evening. It felt intimate without becoming formal and polished without losing its sense of fun. Patrons talked across tables. Strangers compared favourites. The room grew steadily more animated as the evening progressed. The original invitation promised direct access to the makers, thoughtful food pairings and an ambience that would carry the mood. All three were delivered.
For a first event, Dark Spirits established a strong foundation. The food was excellent, the pours were generous, the service was sharp and the makers brought the stories to life. More than anything, it reminded us that some of the best evenings are not built around one single ingredient. They happen when food, drink, place and people are all given equal consideration.
Dark Spirits brought each of those elements together in the heart of Melbourne. A little darker. A little warmer. And, by the final pour, more than a little spirited.
Dark Spirits returns to Little Collins Street Kitchen at Sheraton Melbourne on Friday 14 August at 6pm and finally on Friday 25 September.
For anyone curious about Victorian spirits, thoughtful food pairings and a Friday evening that offers considerably more than the usual after-work drink, the next table is now being set.
Seats are limited. Book your place for the next Dark Spirits evening via the link
below.
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.